Varanasi is one of the oldest cities in the world and one of the very few ancient cities that is still alive. Its one of India's most culturally rich cities.

Here are some of my pictures taken during my several tours. Nothing much has changed over the years I had seen the city.I got up really early and went to the ghat. To my surprise, the place had awakened much before me.

See my pictures of Varanasi in better resolution here. (for computer users)

If you want a customized tour focused on Photography, I will be happy to organise it for you. 

Join us for a Photography Tour to Varanasi during Dev Diwali

Varanasi is one of my favourite places for photography. Its like an ocean.

When you go there for the first time, it will definitely look noisy and chaotic and filthy. The noise at the Gadauliya Chaurasta to the way to the Dasashwamedh Ghat (the main ghat) is deafening. The chaos is overwhelming. But, as you start absorbing the place, you will suddenly start liking the place. It is one of the oldest cities of the world that is still alive.

Its also the best place to see ancient Indian culture and shoot.

I remember my first visit to Varanasi about three decades ago. I was overwhelmed to see the place. I was just 15 but was very much interested in travelling and photography. I had a basic film camera at that time and I was very facinated to see the cameras with big lenses by the foreigners. I thought, they cameras would be awesome and could take great pictures. That is past. Later I realized that camera is needed but more important is your vision and understanding of light and composition.

Since I have been to Varanasi many times, I have a decent collection of the place which can give you an understanding of the photographic opportunities. Please go through my images and let me know if you like them.

Varanasi Ghats Pictures

Most of the action in Varansi either happens in the gallis (lanes) or in the ghats (banks of the river).
The name Varanasi is derived from two words - Varuna and Assi, the two ghats which mark the two ends of this ancient city.

When I go there, my typical routine is this -
Wake up, get ready and reach the ghats about an hour before sunrise. The activities at the ghats start early.

People come here to take bath everyday and they have been doing this since their childhood. Though I agree, that the water is very polluted now and I would not like to take a dip in this water like any other devout Hindu.
I immerse myself in the activies and document them. Its the faith that makes them believe that they will be washed off all their sins if they take a dip.

I walk around till the time the light is good, maybe around 10am, have breakfast. By about 11am, the sun has risen high enough to illuminate the narrow lanes. This is the best time for photographing in the lanes. Sometimes, you will find rays of light hitting in and makes some great pictures.

If I get tired, I go to the room to see the pictures take some rest and come back by about 3pm. Most of the days, I really don't stop. I walk almost the whole day.

Early morning is also the time to shoot the wrestlers in the akhadas or the traditional gyms. It is very interesting to observe their activities and shoot them.

The sadhu was painting his forehead preparing himself for his daily prayers. These sadhus believe that they have to be purified and presented well before they start praying.

Though some ghats were crowded, some were lonely. The most important and obviously the most crowded ghat in Varanasi is the Dasashwamedh Ghat. That is where the spectacular Ganga Arati happens. Ladies light up lamps and use it as a meduim to please the gods, symbolically going from darkness to light

You will see a lot of graffitis there in Varanasi. I like to wait for sometime and shoot with with some relevant subjects to make the scene interesting.

Most of the time, the boats in the ghats of Varanasi are very random, but sometimes, you will find them in perfect order. They make good pictures with some activity in the foreground.

In the morning a lot of sadhus come to the river to take bath. With the sun rising, it makes a great picture.

India, at one time was believed as the land of snake charmers. It's no more true. In fact, you will hardly find snake charmers. It is considered illegal now and these people are being asvised to take up new professions. However, in Varanasi, you will sometimes come across these people. I took a picture of this with the crowd. I doubt that there will be any left in the next 10 years.

Why Varanasi is a Photographer’s Paradise

Varanasi is one of the world’s oldest living cities, offering endless opportunities for photography—from spiritual rituals along the Ganges to vibrant street markets and centuries-old temples.

Benaras is older than history, older than tradition, older even than legent and looks twice as old as all of them put together - Mark Twain

You will realise that this is true and not an exaggeration only when you visit the place and absorb it for a few days.

You will never get tired shooting here. I have been coming to Varanasi since my childhood and coming back every year and shooting since the last two decades. I never get tired. There is always something interesting that you will be able to capture.

Best Time to Visit Varanasi for Photography

The city looks photogenic year-round, but October to March is ideal with cooler weather and soft winter light. Festivals like Dev Deepawali and Holi transform the city into a photographer’s dream. During the monsoon season, the water of Ganga river overflows and makes it dangerous. Also, the boats don't operate during the monsoon. 

Top Photography Spots in Varanasi

1. Dashashwamedh Ghat – The Heart of the City

Capture the famous Ganga Aarti ceremony, glowing diyas, and chanting devotees. This happens during the evening. There are hundreds of people - pilgrims and photographers attending the ceremony. You have to go there early to get a place so that you get the best pictures. If you are late, the good spots are occupied and you will not be able to get the best angles.

2. Assi Ghat – Sunrise Yoga and Morning Rituals

The morning Arati called Subah Banaras is equally good. It starts about an hour before sunrise. You have to be before time to get the right spot for taking great shots. Later after the sunrise, you can shoot the religious practices done by the people who come to the ghats.

3. Manikarnika Ghat – The Cremation Ghat

Though the people here discourage photography, you can go there and take a few quick shots. A powerful place reflecting the philosophy of life and death in Varanasi. Approach with respect and sensitivity.

The best place from where you can shoot this ghat is from a boat using a telephoto lens. No one will bother you. 

4. Boat Ride on the Ganges – Panoramic Views

The best time for the boat ride is morning. Since the ghats face the east, it is illuminated by morning light. Many people take baths in the morning. Take a manual boat, not with a motor. Though they might be a bit more expensive, they are slow and you will get your own time to shoot. Also, request the boat driver to go as close to the ghats as possible. 

5. Old Varanasi Alleys – Authentic Street Life

There is no time of the day when you cannot shoot. After 10am, the light on the ghats becomes quite harsh and is not quite suitable to shoot. That's the time when the sun’s rays start falling in the narrow lanes, creating great opportunities of light and shadows. 

Narrow lanes filled with vendors, painted walls, cows, and vibrant street scenes perfect for candid photography.

6. Temples of Varanasi – Spiritual Essence

The Kashi Vishwanath Temple is very crowded and cameras are not allowed even from far. So, its not really possible to take pictures. The Nepali Temple, and smaller shrines provide excellent photography opportunities. This Nepali temple has very intricate wooden carvings, many of which are exotic like Khajuraho. Watch out for them on the upper part from outside.

7. Markets of Varanasi – Chaos and Colors

Godowlia Market and Vishwanath Gali are filled with sarees, sweets, paan sellers, and artisans—ideal for colorful, bustling frames. Thateri Bazaar is another of my favorite places. There is so much happening here all the time. 

Must-Capture Rituals and Festivals in Varanasi

• Morning arati at Assi Ghat (Subah Banaras)
• Morning bathing rituals and pujas along the ghats
• Evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat
• Cremation rituals at Manikarnika and Harishchandra Ghats (from a distance)
• Festivals like Holi, Diwali, and Dev Deepawali

Essential Photography Tips for Varanasi

• Wear comfortable walking shoes. You will have to walk a lot.
• Golden Hours Matter: Shoot at sunrise and sunset. During this time, the light is great. Also, you will get more activities at the ghats.
• Lens Choices: Wide-angle for ghats, 50mm/35mm for streets, telephoto for intimate rituals. The choice of lenses depends on your style. After trying everything, now I have settled for a 35mm 1.8 lens. I don't feel the need for any other lens for Varanasi.
• Respect Locals: Always ask before photographing rituals or personal moments. Most people are absolutely okay with taking pictures. There are two types of sadhus (holy men) that you will find here. One is the real pilgrims who come from far and are absolutely fine getting photographed. There is another type of sadhus, the fake ones -  who are dressed only to get photographed and make money. There are many of these fake sadhus who get hired by photographers who take them on a boat with them and take pictures of them doing different things. The question is - why would a sadhu be with you on a private boat? The pictures look great but far from reality.
• Use Reflections & Shadows: Play with reflections in the Ganges or shadows in the alleys for creative frames. You can get some really great pictures of the play of light and shadows.
• Try Black & White: Varanasi’s raw emotions look stunning in monochrome.

• Try to use Layers: Varanasi can look quite cluttered. Find calm in chaos. Aim for rhythmic arrangements. It takes quite a lot of practise and vision to do make poetic pictures. 

3-Day Photography Tour Itinerary in Varanasi

• Day 1: Sunrise boat ride → Dashashwamedh & Assi Ghats → Alleys near Vishwanath Temple → Evening Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat.
• Day 2: Manikarnika & Harishchandra Ghats → Weaving workshops → Godowlia Market → Sunset from a boat.
• Day 3: Assi Ghat Subah Banaras → Walking along the ghats to Nepali Temple → Vishwanath Gali → Evening rituals & street life.

Final Thoughts – Why Varanasi Will Change Your Photography Forever

Varanasi is not just about clicking photos; it’s about immersing yourself in timeless stories. Whether it’s a priest offering prayers at dawn or children playing in ancient alleys, every moment in this city is worth capturing.

📸 Varanasi Photography Tour – Frequently Asked Questions (FAQ)

General Travel & Planning

1. How many days are enough for a photography tour in Varanasi?
   3 days are sufficient to cover major ghats, boat rides, alleys, markets, and rituals, though you could easily spend a week for deeper exploration.
2. What is the best season to visit Varanasi for photography?
   October–March offers pleasant weather, soft golden light, and misty mornings perfect for photography. Summers can be extremely hot and monsoon is dangerous.
3. Is Varanasi safe for solo photographers and travelers?
   Yes, Varanasi is generally safe. However, there are a lot of annoyances caused by the people who ask for boat rides or for selling stuff. Book a reputed hotel only. There are many hotels in online portals that don't even exist. I met one group of ladies who asked me for directions to a hotel, and that hotel didn't exist. Be cautious in crowded markets, avoid isolated alleys at night, and keep your gear secure. The local people are ready to loot you with every opportunity they get, especially when they see a foreigner. For travelling around, Uber works great. 
4. Do I need special permission to shoot in Varanasi?
   For most public spaces (ghats, alleys, markets), no. However, many temples and cremation ghats restrict photography. Always ask before clicking. 
5. What are the must-see photography spots in Varanasi?
   Dashashwamedh Ghat, Assi Ghat, Manikarnika Ghat, Old City alleys, Godowlia Market, a sunrise boat ride, and the Nepali Temple. Mostly its the ghats and the lanes where you will get the best shots. You just have to walk and walk with a positive attitude and you will get some amazing shots.

Photography-Specific

6. What kind of camera gear should I carry?

• Wide-angle lens (ghats, landscapes)
• 50mm or 35mm prime (streets & portraits)
• Telephoto (intimate shots of rituals)
• A fast lens (f/1.8 or wider) for low light
• Extra batteries & memory cards

As I mentioned before, nowadays, I shoot only with a 35mm lens and quite happy with what I get. Of course, when you are in a boat and taking pictures, a telephoto is highly recommended. 

7. Can I photograph cremation rituals at Manikarnika Ghat?
   Direct close-up photography is discouraged and considered disrespectful. Wide or distant shots from a boat are more acceptable. Some people might come to you and ask you to leave. Be low profile, shoot a few pictures quickly, say sorry if someone interrupts you and leave. 

Boat is a great place to shoot the ghats to get a landscape view, and also some close up shots using a telephoto.

8. What time of day is best for photography in Varanasi?

• Sunrise (mist, rituals, golden light)
• Evening (Aarti, glowing diyas, dramatic atmosphere)
• Midday works well in shaded alleys.

9. Is drone photography allowed in Varanasi?
   Currently, drone usage is restricted near the ghats and temples. You need prior government permission to fly drones legally. However, I have seen many drones flying around during the festival.
10. What are the best spots for sunrise and sunset shots?

• Sunrise: Boat ride facing east along Assi & Dashashwamedh Ghats
• Sunset: From a boat facing the ghats or at Panchganga Ghat

I generally take a manual boat from Assi Ghat and go all the way beyond Manikarnika Ghat. I spent some time shooting the Manikarnika (burning ghat) from the boat before getting down.

Street & People Photography

11. How should I approach locals for portraits?
    Always smile, make eye contact, and ask politely. Many people agree happily, but some may refuse—respect their choice. Also, it helps when you show the picture to them on your screen. It always brings a smile to their face.
12. Do I need to pay locals for portraits?
    Some sadhus are dressed only to get photographed and are more like models. They will not get photographed unless you pay. Many photographers hire them and make them do funny stuff. Some take them with themselves on a boat to get some typical shots. Just google for “sadhu on a boat in varanasi shot”. You will understand what I mean. Though the shots look great, you are creating another similar shot already created by thousands of photographers. If you like those kinds of shots, do get one.

You can also get a Naga sadhu / Aghori by arrangement from a local fixer.

13. How do I blend in while shooting in the alleys?
    Wear modest, simple cotton clothing, avoid flashy gear, and move slowly. This helps locals feel comfortable and gives you candid moments.
14. Are children in Varanasi open to being photographed?
    Yes, most children love it, especially if you show them the picture afterward. Still, ask parents or elders nearby for consent.
15. Is it safe to carry expensive gear in crowded places?
    Yes, but keep it close to you, use a cross-body strap, and avoid displaying multiple cameras at once in busy markets. Though stealing of equipment is not very common, you cannot rule it out.

Cultural Sensitivity & Etiquette

16. What cultural sensitivities should I be aware of?

• Remove shoes before entering temples.
• Don’t touch people’s heads (sacred in Hindu culture).
• Avoid photographing people during deep personal prayers without permission.
• Dress modestly, cover your body. Short skirts and shirts are not acceptable. Revealing your cleavage can attract unnecessary attention.

17. Can I photograph the Ganga Aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat?
    Yes, photography is allowed. Arrive at least an hour early to find a good spot. A telephoto lens helps capture details of the priests.
18. How do I behave at cremation ghats as a photographer?
    Stay quiet, shoot from a distance, avoid flash, and never interrupt or disturb mourners. The rituals are sacred.
19. Are there restrictions in temples?
    Most temples prohibit photography inside sanctums. The exteriors and surrounding areas, however, can be photographed freely.
20. How do locals usually react to photographers?
    Generally warm and curious. Some may even invite you to shoot their rituals. Respect, politeness, and humility go a long way.

Logistics & Essentials

21. Where should I stay for easy access to photo spots?
    Guesthouses and boutique hotels near Assi Ghat or Dashashwamedh Ghat are best—you’ll be right at the heart of action. They are quite booked most of the time though. You need to book well in advance. Airbnb has some good homestays.
22. How do I get around Varanasi with gear?
    Walking is best for alleys and ghats. For longer distances, use auto-rickshaws or cycle rickshaws. Cars are not practical in the old city.
23. Is it okay to carry a tripod?
    I have never carried a tripod in Varanasi, it's not required. It's mostly street and documentary photography.
24. How do I protect my gear in Varanasi?

• Use a dust/rain cover (ghats can be dusty and damp).
• Carry a microfiber cloth for lens cleaning.
• Be cautious during rituals with fire, smoke, or water splashes.

25. What non-photography essentials should I carry?

• Comfortable walking shoes
• Reusable water bottle
• Sunscreen & hat
• Hand sanitizer & wet wipes
• Small cash for tips or entry fees

Tips for photographers

Be Light
Be ready to walk a lot; really a lot.
Wear slippers or comfortable walking shoes.
Get going before daybreak, take some rest in the afternoon and come back in the evening.
Don't stick to one place for long (unless you are sure about a shot) - keep moving.

If you want a customized tour focused on Photography, I will be happy to organise it for you. 

Thanksgiving

Thank you for reading this post. Hope you liked spending time here. I will be back again with another interesting place.

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