Dev Diwali is one of the most popular festivals in Varanasi. It happens on the full moon night during the Hindu month of Karthik (Karthik Purnima). Thousands of visitors come to Varanasi on this day to see the city decorated in its best during the festival.

People take bath in the ghats in the morning, but the real fun is in the evening, when each and every ghat is decorated with lamps. It is one of the most spectacular sights I have ever seen in my life.

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Dev Deepawali in Varanasi: A Complete Guide (with Photography Tips)

Dev Deepawali—literally “the Diwali of the Gods”—is Varanasi at its most luminous. On Kartik Purnima (the full moon of the Hindu month of Kartik), the city’s 80+ ghats along the Ganga are outlined with millions of flickering diyas, priests perform grand aartis, and the river mirrors a necklace of fire. For one night, Kashi seems suspended between water and stars. If you’re planning a visit—or a photo project—here’s everything you need to know.

What is Dev Deepawali?

According to local tradition, Dev Deepawali commemorates the victory of Lord Shiva over the demon Tripurasura. It’s believed that on this night the devas (gods) descend to Varanasi to bathe in the Ganga and celebrate, hence the name. While Diwali (Amavasya) marks the new moon a fortnight earlier which is celebrated in most parts of India, Dev Deepawali comes on the full moon, closing the auspicious cycle of Kartik—considered the holiest month in Kashi and the whole of India.

When does it happen?

Dev Deepawali falls on Kartik Purnima, usually in late October or November. In Varanasi, the festival day is preceded by the Ganga Mahotsav, a multi-day cultural festival featuring classical music and dance, crafts, and local cuisine. Pilgrims also observe Kartik Snan (holy dip at dawn) throughout the month, but the final full-moon bath is especially meritorious.

What happens on the ghats?

From late afternoon, volunteers and residents line the steps with rows of small earthen lamps. As dusk falls, thousands of hands strike matches; within minutes, the ghats blaze to life. Major ghats—Dashashwamedh, Assi, Rajendra Prasad, Panchganga, Kedar, Scindia, and Chet Singh—host especially large displays. Special Ganga Aarti ceremonies, Vedic chants, conch shells, and synchronized lamp-waving turn the riverfront into an amphitheatre of light and sound. Many families perform deep daan (lamp offerings) in memory of ancestors, setting diyas afloat in leaf cups that drift downstream like constellations.

Morning rituals: the quieter magic

Don’t overlook the morning of Kartik Purnima. Before sunrise, thousands queue for the holy dip. The mist over the river, bells from temples, and saffron-robed sadhus create a contemplative mood that contrasts beautifully with the evening spectacle. For storytellers, the day yields a complete arc: dawn purity, daytime preparations, twilight ignition, and nighttime splendour.

Where to be (and when)

• Morning (pre-dawn to 8 am): Assi Ghat and Tulsi Ghat offer softer light and devotional scenes. You can go for the Subah Banaras Arati at Assi Ghat, which happens before sunrise. The boat jetty at Assi is great for silhouettes of bathers against the rising sun.
• Late afternoon (3–5 pm): Walk from Raja Ghat towards Dashashwamedh to watch volunteers place lamps. Street life portraits—potters selling diyas, boys carrying bundles of wicks, women buying flowers—thrive in this window.
• Aarti time (after sunset): Dashashwamedh Ghat hosts the grandest ceremony, but its too crowded. If you want to be here, take a place well in advance, else you will be behind the crowd and miss the shots. Assi Ghat offers a spacious stage and slightly less crush. For wider views, position yourself on the opposite bank (Ramanagar side) or take a slow-moving boat and anchor midstream.
• Late night (9:30 pm–11 pm): As crowds thin, stroll Kedar and Chausatthi Ghat for serene frames of uninterrupted lamp lines, reflections, and temple facades.

Experiencing Dev Deepawali respectfully

Varanasi balances celebration and sanctity. Dress modestly, avoid stepping on lit diyas, and keep tripods clear of footpaths. Seek permission for close portraits, especially during private rituals. If you join deep daan, a local priest or volunteer can guide you on the correct offering.

Practical planning

• Boats: Book a boat well in advance. Opt for a rowboat over motorboats for steadier platforms (and better sound). Sunset to aarti is peak; a second loop later at night offers calmer water and fewer wakes.
• Getting around: The old city lanes bottleneck on festival night. Arrive early and be prepared to walk. Wear closed shoes (melted wax is real).
• Safety & crowd flow: Keep gear minimal, valuables close, and move with the crowd rather than against it. Identify two exit routes from the ghat you choose.
• Permissions: Drones are typically restricted—assume no-fly unless you have explicit written permissions from local authorities.

Photography Tips for Dev Deepawali

You already know Varanasi is a feast; this night turns it into a masterclass in low-light, color temperature, and storytelling. Here’s a field-tested plan.

1) Gear & setup

• Bodies & lenses: A full-frame body helps, but not mandatory. Carry one fast prime (24mm f/1.4 or 35mm f/1.8) for environmental scenes and one mid-zoom (24–70mm or 24–105mm) for flexibility. A 70–200mm is useful from boats for compressing layers of lamps and priests during aarti.

I personally carry only a 35mm 1.8 lens on a single body. It makes things very easy as we have to walk a lot in crowded places. Carrying less actually helps me take better pictures. Lugging around with a heavy bag full of lenses can make you tired and eventually can be an obstacle in taking better pictures.

2) Exposure strategies

• I use Manual mode with Auto ISO. I change the shutter speed and aperture depending on the situation. Most of the time I use Apertures of f/10 or narrower aperture.

3) White balance & color

Diyas are warm (~1800–2000K), mixed with cool LEDs and floodlights.

• Shoot RAW and keep Auto WB for agility.

4) Composition ideas you’ll love

• Leading stairs: Place a line of diyas as a diagonal leading to a priest or a temple shikhara; shoot low at 24–35mm for depth.
• Reflected symmetries: From the opposite bank, frame the entire ghat as a shimmering triangle of light; wait for a boat silhouette to cut through.
• Hands and fire: Tight shots of hands shielding a flame from wind—universal, intimate moments.
• Layered storytelling: Foreground: diyas; Mid: devotees; Background: aarti flames—three planes, one story.

Ancient-modern contrast: A smartphone torch lighting a diya beside a centuries-old stone—a subtle visual of continuity.

5) Managing crowds like a pro

• The Crowd: The biggest challenge in shooting in Dev Diwali is the crowd. There are too many people. Apart from the thousands of photographers, there are thousands more pilgrims from all over India and also the locals. There is hardly any place to walk.
• Scout earlier: Walk the ghats the previous evening or the same afternoon to mark railings, stages, and clean sightlines.
• Anchor a base: Choose one primary ghat and one fallback (usually 5–10 mins away). When the crush builds, just walk up the ghats to the main road to save yourself.
• Boat timing: Book two rides—sunset loop for atmosphere and late-night loop for calmer long exposures. Boats are quite expensive on the Dev Diwali day, so finish your ghats shooting a day earlier. Take a manual boat. It moves slowly, so you get enough time to take your shots. 

6) Ethics & sensitivity

Avoid flash during aarti and private rituals—it breaks immersion and offends many. When photographing deep daan for departed relatives, keep distance or ask quietly after the ritual. Share images with participants when possible; it builds goodwill.

Also, the new generation of photographers I see using extreme wide angle lenses and go right up close to the subjects faces. This makes the subjects feel very uncomfortable and also block the sight for other photographers. It is very frustrating at times.

Beyond the festival night

Extend your story by exploring Ramnagar Fort (across the river) for panoramic views, Manikarnika (from respectful distance) for the eternal flame that contrasts the celebratory lights, and the old city lanes for artisans: diya makers, oil vendors, and flower sellers. If your schedule allows, attend Ganga Mahotsav performances—long-lens portraits of musicians against riverbackdrops are compelling additions.

What to eat (quick bites between shoots)

Varanasi fuels you sweetly. Grab malaiyyo (if in season), jalebi, kachori-sabzi, and a Banarasi paan to wrap the night. Hydrate—river breeze plus walking will sneak up on you.

Packing checklist

• Fast prime + mid-zoom, spare batteries/cards
• Power bank
• Scarf or mask (soot), closed comfortable walking shoes.
• Water bottle

Final thought

Dev Deepawali is one of the most amazing festivals of India and Varanasi is the best place to witness it. If you have patience and are quick, you will definitely get some shots that you will be proud of.

Read my blog on photography in Varanasi.

Join us for a Photography Tour to Varanasi during Dev Diwali

Tips for photographers

Be A Light
Be ready to walk a lot; really a lot.
Wear slippers not shoes.
Get going before daybreak, take some rest in the afternoon and come back in the evening.
Don't stick to one place for long (unless you are sure about a shot) - keep moving.

Thanksgiving

Thank you for reading this post. Hope you liked spending time here. I will be back again with another interesting place.

 

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